Monday 31 October 2016

Highway 1 to Santa Barbara

Today's drive was on my predictions for the top 3 of our trip. We drove from Monterey to Santa Barbara along the coast started early as we were told to take all day to drive it as we'll want to stop everywhere.

We set off having had muffins for breakfast from the office and soon arrived on the coastal route. The scenery was beautiful but it wasn't long before we were both talking about how we think we've been ruined, after New Zealand scenery I don't think much will live up to that. I hate to say, I think you get a bit saturated, had we come on a two week holiday just to the states and driven along that road in sure it would have had a bigger impact! 

The other thing is because everyone says how amazing the route is you have very high expectations and it was a very nice coast line but there are some stunning coast in England and all over the world to compete with.

People say the first part of the drive is the best part but we found that as the day went on it got better and better, not the scenery but the drive and the interest. We stopped a lot to start with at view points along the way for photos but at about 11am we came to our first really cool stop. An elephant seal colony, we've seen a few this trip but this was ridiculous! 

Just on the edge of the road, by a car park were hundreds of seals. Edd was driving and I spotted them before he did so I gave him a heads up, 'you ready for this, it's silly amounts of seals' (see photos for what I mean!). We watched them for a while and enjoyed hearing them make a very weird noise through their nose as they fight, it's like they are blowing bubbles.

The whole of the trip we have had these huge birds flying over our heads, it's a real treat to be able to see under such stunning birds. I don't know what they are, I'm going to have to do some research but we don't get to see birds like these in England, at least not often anyway!

W
e had planned to stop off in a town for a wander and when we got their it was so small we had passed it before we realised, I can't believe people live in the middle of nowhere. We've been saying this all the way through our trip and we haven't even been anywhere that remote! We continued on an decided to try the next town.

The next place happened to be Cambria. A really cute little country town that looking like a wild western town. We wandered all the way up one side and back down stopping off at all the little shops and art galleries. I got a frozen yoghurt which was self service and I felt like a big kid, I had hundred and thousand sprinkles and toffee and chocolate bits on it and then felt sick as I finished it!! 

We sat out in the sun on a bench and let the world go by in the tiny town. We also went round a gallery where a woman followed me around telling me about each art piece, not in a helpful way but a very irritating way! We finally escaped and decided that was enough of friendly Americans.

Edd found a butterfly grove on the map and we decided we would have a look. I had only been telling Edd a few days ago about somewhere in the states, monarch butterflies migrate every year and apparently it's crazy, you get swarms of butterflies taking off together. Turns out we drove through the area! 

It's the wrong time of year for them to be taking off, they come to California to survive the winter as it stays above freezing. We arrived at this little eucalyptus wood on the side of the road and jumped out the car. As we walked up we found out that they do free tours daily and as we got closer we heard the guide introducing himself for a tour, good timing or what!

We learnt that the butterflies come down the coast, sometime from as far as Canada, they fly between 800-900 miles to get there to stay over winter. Apparently monarchs can't fly under 12 degrees centigrade, they use the eucalyptus trees for shelter and somewhere to rest to conserve energy as they don't eat over winter. 

In the spring (about January) they mate, the female is dragged to the ground by the male and then picked up and taken off to a tree over night! The female then has about 6 weeks to lay on average 200 eggs on milkweed. Milkweed is poisonous and makes the caterpillars that eat the leave poisonous to bird, it means that the butterflies are also poisonous too.

The most mind blowing thing about these butterflies is their life expectancy and the way they survive. When a generation of butterflies develop they last about 6 weeks, just long enough to fly up the coast a bit, mate and lay eggs before they die. Those eggs then develop and again only last about 6 weeks. In Autumn when the weather starts to change something incredible happens- the next generation of butterflies to develop, develop with immature sex organs. 

This means they don't mate, instead they eat lots, store energy and fly anything up to 2,800 miles to get warm enough for winter. They then spend winter focused on surviving before they mate in the spring. Once mated they only survive about 6 weeks but in total the generation born just before winter live 6 months rather than 6 weeks to make sure the species survive over winter. I just can't believe that works! Nature never ceases to amaze me!!!

We wandered through the eucalyptus trees and apart from the odd monarch floating around we didn't see many. That was until we focused on the leaves of the plant, you would not believe how many butterflies were just hanging!! They were very well camouflaged and not so obvious to the naked eye, from below but with the camera lens or through the binoculars you could see thousands everywhere!! I was buzzing, it was stunning.

We continued our drive and decided a late lunch/early dinner was needed. Edd had done all the driving and needed a break. We found a cheap grill called Eddie's Grill and had burgers which were very good. We were in our element playing with the fact that it was called Eddie for Edd's sake after being in Carmel for me yesterday. I got a pic of us and I titled it 'Eddie's in Carmel with Carmel in Eddie's'!!

We think we've got the hang of eating in the states. We only need one meal a day and a snack somewhere along the line. We also stick to what they are good at, burgers, tacos, chicken wings and chips. As we were enjoying our burger an old lady wobbled in wearing a black ragged dress with black lace and a netted hat covered in spiders. It's Halloween today and it's great to see everyone getting involved!

As we checked in to our last hotel of the trip (NYC is an Airbnb) they warned us not to worry if we heard anything tonight not to worry as the Americans celebrate Halloween properly!

Sunday 30 October 2016

Monterey & Carmel

This morning was miserable weather. It rained a lot. We went to reception for breakfast, it's a funny little system, they set up a simple breakfast in the office - croissants and muffins, you help yourself and carry it back to your bedroom. To be honest I was impressed with how good it was and much we enjoyed it.

We had very relaxed plans for the morning and stood on the doorstep ready to leave when we realised that neither of us really wanted to get wet. We're trying to save money so there was no point in heading out to traipse around in the rain as we won't be popping into coffee shops etc. So we stayed in and watched a couple of episodes of House instead and waited for the rain to calm down.


By the time we got into Monterey the rain was stopping, we strolled down to cannery row and the beach to enjoy a bit of window shopping and a look out to sea. Cannery row got its name when it became famous for sardine fishing and canning. In the 1890's they had a huge influx of people from all over the world who came to fish and can. 

The waters were full of sardines and at the peak there were 19 canneries and production plants. Everyone believed the fish would last forever even when a few marine scientists gave them warnings and it did finally collapse in 1950's. Now the area is protected, it's a marine reserve and the fish levels are back again.

We wandered up and down but I think we are both a bit travelled out, we didn't read all the tourist signs and decided we should get going to Carmel along the scenic route since the sun we had been waiting for had finally come out.

We paid to join the toll road along the coast and followed the 17 mile coastal route around the peninsula. It is a very beautiful drive and we stopped every so often to enjoy the sea and waves. We finished the drive by visiting Pebble Beach golf course. Apparently it's famous and has held some famous golf tournaments, Edd seemed happy!

We arrived in Carmel and parked up, it was so exciting, we were both like big kids, EVERYTHING had my name on it (for anyone who doesn't know, my real name is Carmel, Carly is just a nick name that stuck!) we had lunch in the bakery and then we ran around town taking photos of every sign we could find. 

We found a Christmas shop and their decorations were disappointing but I did manage to get a Christmas Dec with Carmel on it. We then spent ages in a t shirt shop trying to find a t-shirt for Edd. It's so weird, Carmel is a fairly rare name so I never have my name printed on things and here we were with EVERYTHING covered in my name! I also got myself a big cosy hoody to chill out at home in.


It turns out I can be proud of my name town, it's beautiful, the nicest place we've been in the states so far. A lovely town with lots of art shops and little courtyards with interesting touristy shops. We really enjoyed our afternoon strolling around.

We also made it to the beach which is nothing like the stunning Australian beaches we have visited but it was very nice and lovely to get some fresh air as the sun went down. I was over the moon with my photo of Carmel by the sea in Carmel by-the-sea!!

The only negative I can find in Carmel is the traffic system, the main roads of Carmel are in a grid. Which to be honest isn't only a problem in Carmel, it's just the stupid stop rule that messes everything up. In the states they have this bizarre use of stop signs, at every cross road junction they put up stop signs from every direction, so you arrive at a junction and no one has right of way. 

Technically it's first come first serve so you are expected to remember who arrived, in which order and go in that order but it sort of ends up being whoever is most pushy goes first and everyone else slowly edges out. They use stop signs everywhere, you end up edging over every junction! It makes your drive very stop start but I guess you get used to it after a while.

We spent the evening in another brewery. I find it interesting how most bars we have been in have so many screens everywhere. It would be unusual for a pub in England to have 5 screens above a bar showing a least two different sports at the same time but here that seems to be the norm. 

People tend to eat sat in front of a tv. We watched the baseball match and I decided rather than phase out I would try and see if I could get the hang of the game. Turns out it's very much like rounders and after quizzing Edd continuously for the first 20 minutes I think I started to get the hang of it. 

Edd had a couple of tasting paddles and we had a few nibbles rather than a proper meal as we tend to find 3 full meals a day too much here. I haven't drunk enough water today and have a head ache so I was keen to get us home and somewhere a little more quiet. Tomorrow is due to be good weather which works out well for our scenic drive down the coast.

Saturday 29 October 2016

Yosemite & drive to Monterey

We were up early(ish) at 7.30am to make the most of the park. We decided we would make the most of the good weather to drive up the valley to the Glacier Point. They are expecting snow tonight so the road is going to be shut for winter as of tomorrow so we felt very lucky to be able to sneak in. Thank god we managed to get up the road the views were stunning as we drove the 45 minutes up the valley to the breath taking view point.

The point is brilliant because it overlooks the whole of the valley and some interesting mountain/rock formations. We got out the car and wandered around the top. We both agree we love the mountains, the air always smells fresher and the sun feels warmer and the view was absolutely amazing.

We drove back down and felt smug as we passed car after car queuing up the hill. As we left the car park a big coach pulled up! Our trip to Yosemite could not have worked out more perfectly. The rain yesterday kept the tourists away, it filled up the waterfalls, we were allowed up for the last day of the season to glacier point and the colours have turned for Autumn but not fallen yet and today was beautiful sunshine. What more could you ask for really!!

We stopped off half way down the valley and chose a 2 mile walk across a hill/mountain side. If I'm totally honest it was a frustrating walk, don't get me wrong, it was beautiful and had we just turned up and done that walk I would have been happy but I knew the colours could be better. I was itching to get back in the car and back up the valley we had been in the day before. With the sun shining I was sure everything would be glowing.

I just couldn't put the camera down it was just ridiculous! The sun and the colours of the forest are like nothing you could imagine. We both agreed that the view from above was beautiful but being in the valley in amongst the glowing trees was exceptional, most beautiful place we had been.

We have decided it would be hard to recommend what to do to people about this place. Had we visited in summer I imagine the view from the top would have been amazing, as it was today and the valley would have been brilliant and beautifully green but nothing like what we experienced today.

We basically didn't do much today but drive and oggle at nature. We parked up for a quick picnic lunch in the car. I bet Edd £2 he couldn't get the biggest crisp in his mouth without it breaking and he proved me wrong! I've learnt a few new things about Edd this trip! Turns out he doesn't like apricots! Who knew!! He's also not bad a accents, bare in mind I'm the judge of that!! And he has a bigger mouth than I had realised! We've had too much time together can't you tell!!

Anyway we finally, begrudgingly left after I made Edd parallel park over and over in tight spots for 'just one more' photo. We had a 4 hour drive ahead of us through extremely flat and boring scenery, especially compared to what we had just left. Edd started the driving with me in control of the music play list, we had a good sing song; then I took over the driving and Edd had a good sing song on his own. At one point we were listening to cricket songs, I didn't even know they did songs about playing cricket!!

We arrived in Monterey and checked into our lovely little motel, with free breakfast, I like this place already! Edd was shattered, he has done a huge amount of driving today and he crashed out in front of a game of baseball, he's getting the hang of it now.

We rested a bit and then popped into town for beer and dinner. It's Halloween Saturday today and I've been really excited to see how Americans celebrate, apparently they love it. I have to say I was disappointed, maybe Monterey isn't a central hub but I was expecting a bit more. 

The waitresses had all made a bit of a effort in fancy dress I suppose but the streets weren't full of costumes and children 'trick or treating'. Dinner was good, I found a great veg and goats cheese pizza (definitely light on the veg) and Edd had fish tacos which was a great change from burgers.

We are now back home celebrating one week to go before we land on English soil again. We've still got a lot to fit in before then and I've had a realisation that I need to make the most of this time with Edd as its been so amazing having him all to myself for so long!!